There are many beautiful things about Denver, but one of the most prominent is the marriage of old and new. Pot and ranching, fracking and organic farming, however you feel about any particular issue, Colorado is the land of old and the land of new. A perfect cultural example of this is Denver’s new Union Station. Located at 17th and one of Denver’s original landmarks has recently been renovated and reopened in an exciting new project. It has brought out an all-star team of restaurateurs and developers, including the Snooze group, the Kitchen group, the brains behind Little Man Ice-cream, and Jennifer One of Denver’s most prominent and fastest growing stars, is the chef and owner of Euclid Hall, Bistro Having recently won the James Beard Award for Best Chef of the South West, she just opened her fourth project in the recently renovated train station.
Upon arriving at Stoic and Genuine, there is very little parking to be found, although there is an immediate and friendly valet available. Walking up to Union, one cannot help but be impressed by the beauty of the building. “UNION STATION” is spelled out in large orange letters, above the grand entrance to a white stone, wonderfully formed train station. Stoic and Genuine is located on the south side of the building, just past the main terminal. With a patio that extends into the plaza, the Stoic door is marked by a large decal of an octopus.
Today’s restaurant scene has seen some revolutionary changes. Chefs like Wolfgang Puck opened up the walls of the kitchen and made the men in white coats. Bartenders began to act as experts of flavor, creating the art of mixology. Modern hosts began to do away with the traditional white tablecloths and formal rules of fine dining. Stoic and Genuine is a shining example of these changes being used properly. Although distinctly modern, the foundations of service and tradition are still observed in this new seafood-centric restaurant. Serve from right and clear from the left, proper wine service and traditional course marking are alive and well here. They have, however, done away with tablecloths, formal dress, and pretense. Plainly set simple tables are lined in perfect rows through the dining room. Traditional chandeliers are replaced by clusters of Edison bulbs, and a raw bar/open kitchen runs all the way down one wall. Full of a rag-tag, but professional, crew of determined chefs, the raw bar/kitchen pops under bright lights – the obvious focal point of the restaurant.
Being sure not to leave Denver’s ever more thirsty residents parched, Stoic combines a simple yet elegant wine list with a creative and innovative cocktail list. A balanced list, including many European selections, provides a backbone of tradition while the out-there cocktails provide a streak of modern rebellion. For example, the “Some Like It Hot” specialty cocktail provides an almost unrecognizable twist on margaritas. Containing tequila, simple syrup, and lime, it is poured over a chili-citrus granite providing a visually stunning glass. The same trick is used in a ginger and bourbon-based cocktail dubbed the “Ginger Cane”.